juniperus chinensis 'blue alps'
- 名媛直播Mackem
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Craig wrote: By all means ask for advice and then completely ignore it, that's totally cool.
With all due respect I never ignored the advice. It was not down to a decision to ignore it that what happened, happened. I found that the soil was just so hard to wash away with the hose and the roots were so hard to untangle. I was washing and raking at the roots for ages. It was the fear of not being able to doing right what you advised me to do that kept me at it. I really didn't know what else I could have done and how I could have done it. It was definitely not as easy as I first thought.
But if you want to think I was just ignoring you then I am fine with that.
Craig wrote: It would have been better getting the tree ready for the ground planting as I advised earlier on.
Was I wrong in thinking that washing and untangling the roots is what I had to do to get the tree ready for the ground?
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- Craig
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but by then the rootball is going to look the same as when he started . Totally 名媛直播Mackem's call .
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- Craig
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名媛直播Mackem wrote:
Craig wrote: By all means ask for advice and then completely ignore it, that's totally cool.
With all due respect I never ignored the advice. It was not down to a decision to ignore it that what happened, happened. I found that the soil was just so hard to wash away with the hose and the roots were so hard to untangle. I was washing and raking at the roots for ages. It was the fear of not being able to doing right what you advised me to do that kept me at it. I really didn't know what else I could have done and how I could have done it. It was definitely not as easy as I first thought.
But if you want to think I was just ignoring you then I am fine with that.
Craig wrote: It would have been better getting the tree ready for the ground planting as I advised earlier on.
Was I wrong in thinking that washing and untangling the roots is what I had to do to get the tree ready for the ground?
I didn't mean you were totally ignoring the info supplied but it does seem as if your rushing it somewhat, that's all.
Some people bare root juniper roots but in general it is not wise. Some original soil kept around the roots can have much benefit. I don't know your tree could go either way from here.It's Never easy as you think it's going to be.
If your not sure just ask the question mate.
Also I'm not sure if you removed any foliage from the tree after you pruned the roots but I think it may be a good idea.
and yes you sorta were wrong,
Myself, I would have reduced the whole tree to pretty much as I described with the pics and trimmed the roots, potted into a plastic pot which was a little wider than need be, then cared for the tree till next year. By then it would have recovered with new roots and they would have been spreading sideways already, new foliage growth and branches.
By then I would have prepared a small area with soil builders, manures and kept the area watered and turned.
The tree could of then been slip potted over into the ground keeping the roots spread out sideways.
This way the tree is prepared to take off growing with a new Trunk line established and also a newly developing root system. Grow on for several tears and attend to proper in ground growing techniques.
But you never asked about that only the soil .have a good day/evening.
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- 名媛直播Mackem
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Craig wrote: Prob right, but no way new root beginning to grow after only a couple of days on a Juniper. It's now or in 2 years at least
I only did the work this morning at about 9am. Probably doesn't help but I thought you should know.
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- 名媛直播Mackem
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Craig wrote: I didn't mean you were totally ignoring the info supplied but it does seem as if your rushing it somewhat, that's all.
Some people bare root juniper roots but in general it is not wise. Some original soil kept around the roots can have much benefit. I don't know your tree could go either way from here.It's Never easy as you think it's going to be.
If your not sure just ask the question mate.
Also I'm not sure if you removed any foliage from the tree after you pruned the roots but I think it may be a good idea.
and yes you sorta were wrong,
Myself, I would have reduced the whole tree to pretty much as I described with the pics and trimmed the roots, potted into a plastic pot which was a little wider than need be, then cared for the tree till next year. By then it would have recovered with new roots and they would have been spreading sideways already, new foliage growth and branches.
By then I would have prepared a small area with soil builders, manures and kept the area watered and turned.
The tree could of then been slip potted over into the ground keeping the roots spread out sideways.
This way the tree is prepared to take off growing with a new Trunk line established and also a newly developing root system. Grow on for several years and attend to proper in ground growing techniques.
But you never asked about that only the soil .have a good day/evening.
Fortunately I did not prune the branches so that is one thing that if done wrong could not be undone.
Regarding the technique you would do, I guess where you said about the pot got lost within the other advice because I just couldn't see. Also, regarding the branches I guess I again couldn't see or perhaps fully grasp what each colour meant. Regarding the soil, I am afraid all I have is the compost and vermiculite. I sadly don't remember you saying about manure. That is new to me.
But about what I did and didn't ask, I am new so I am sadly not able to think of everything that needs mentioning.
I just hope I can get out of this horrible mess.
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- Auk
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名媛直播Mackem wrote: I just hope I can get out of this horrible mess.
Ignore the advice. Leave it where it is and don't touch it for a year.
That gives you a year time (or actually a bit less than a year ) to learn how and when to repot a juniper.
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- Craig
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Maybe trim foliage back by a quarter to a third( take that off) try removing dead looking foliage first, don't keep the new soil too wet and Junipers like water on the foliage even if your not actually watering the roots.
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- Craig
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Auk wrote: Ignore the advice.
nice , :whistle:
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- Auk
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Craig wrote: Maybe trim foliage back by a quarter to a third( take that off)
Don't.
Myth 3 - Trees should be pruned back heavily when they are planted to compensate for the loss of roots.
Tree establishment is best on unpruned trees. Although pruning the top can reduce the amount of water that evaporates from the leaves, the tree needs a full crown to produce the much-needed food and the plant hormones that induce root growth. The tree will develop a stronger, more extensive root system if it has a fuller crown. Limit pruning at the time of planting to structural training and the removal of damage branches.
source:
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- 名媛直播Mackem
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Auk wrote: Myth 3 - Trees should be pruned back heavily when they are planted to compensate for the loss of roots.
Tree establishment is best on unpruned trees. Although pruning the top can reduce the amount of water that evaporates from the leaves, the tree needs a full crown to produce the much-needed food and the plant hormones that induce root growth. The tree will develop a stronger, more extensive root system if it has a fuller crown. Limit pruning at the time of planting to structural training and the removal of damage branches.
source:
Structural training? I am sure it has been covered before but what I have been able to pick up is removal of branches can aid the thickness of the tree. Am I right? I assume this is what you mean. But what if the pruning was limited to just shaping? Could you get the same result you get from pruning to help the structure?
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