名媛直播

名媛直播Mackem wrote: Looks like you have made the air-layer just below half way.

Actually it's about one third.

I have some sphagmum moss doing nothing. I am worried about this fungal infection though but as I am only doing a little bit, a tiny bit of moss won't harm me.

What fungal infection? Sphagnum moss actually has natural anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties.

Auk wrote: Actually it's about one third.

So whatever the height of my tree is, one-third of the height of that is where I need to cut. That is a very important piece of information I needed to know. Thanks so very much.

Auk wrote: What fungal infection? Sphagnum moss actually has natural anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties.

"……….Sphagnum moss can be a source of a chronic fungal disease called sporotrichosis, which enters the skin through scratches and abrasions. From there it can get into your lymph nodes and cause swelling of the joints. The entry point will develop blisters. If treatment is not given, amputation of the infected area can become necessary; death from the disease can also occur……………."

* I notice you said in your last post you are going to let it grow for a year and then decide what your next step will be. I think that is a great idea I may take on board. Mine looks no older than yours I think from the look of it. And I think breaking up the 3-4 year growth target into annual assessments makes the waiting game not seem so labored. If you can actually do things in that time then I have nothing to fear from ground planting it.

名媛直播Mackem wrote: So whatever the height of my tree is, one-third of the height of that is where I need to cut. That is a very important piece of information I needed to know. Thanks so very much.

No. You cut based on the desired height of the tree. Trunk thickness is an important factor. most good bonsai have a tunk that is 6 to 12 times as tall as thick.

名媛直播Mackem wrote: Mine looks no older than yours I think from the look of it.

Indeed, Yours is much younger than Auk's.

名媛直播Mackem wrote: "……….Sphagnum moss can be a source of a chronic fungal disease called sporotrichosis, which enters the skin through scratches and abrasions. From there it can get into your lymph nodes and cause swelling of the joints. The entry point will develop blisters. If treatment is not given, amputation of the infected area can become necessary; death from the disease can also occur……………."

Oh... I see. I thought you meant an infection of the tree.
I cannot advise you on this. I've had sphagnum in my hands several times without problems, but I'm not going to tell you there's no risk and not be careful.

As LB said:
You should not necessarily do the same as I do. I have selected 1/3 as there I see a possible future apex.
I will try and fatten up the trunk and getting more tapering by letting side branches grow freely (the lowest branch to grow freely, the higher branches to be pruned to grow less hard, and the highest ones to be pruned even harder).

Another technique could be to cut the trunk above a possible new leader, to create a new apex out of it.

So again, it depends on your future plans, the style you choose and the techniques you will use.

Do remember:
If you do not cut off enough, you can still cut more off later.
If you cut off too much... you cannot stick it back on.

Auk wrote: If you do not cut off enough, you can still cut more off later.
If you cut off too much... you cannot stick it back on.

And.. often .. cutting more than you have in mind creates a better tree

Auk wrote: As LB said:
You should not necessarily do the same as I do. I have selected 1/3 as there I see a possible future apex.
I will try and fatten up the trunk and getting more tapering by letting side branches grow freely (the lowest branch to grow freely, the higher branches to be pruned to grow less hard, and the highest ones to be pruned even harder).

Another technique could be to cut the trunk above a possible new leader, to create a new apex out of it.

So again, it depends on your future plans, the style you choose and the techniques you will use.

Do remember:
If you do not cut off enough, you can still cut more off later.
If you cut off too much... you cannot stick it back on.

The idea you have in mind, I think I can see what your trying to do. Get a taper in the branches. Get that pyramid shape. The higher you get the smaller the branches. The middle branches are not as long as the lower branches but are longer than the top branches. That sounds very good. The one thing I have always wanted from a 名媛直播 tree is the sort you see at places like the RHS shows at Chelsea and Tatton. Trees with a very strong inverted V shape to the branches and a nice flowing trunk.

But I also love a Juniper to be like a Juniper. To me a Juniper is a tree suited to a nice, long flowing graceful slant.

I know ONE thing I want to do. Get rid of the left hand branch. If I get rid of the right one the trunk will have that kink in the bottom because the trunk seems to flow naturally toward the right and the left one came from the trunk. Rather than the right coming from the left.

My mouth is really watering with ideas but I would love your input. I have a much closer pic below taken just minutes ago for you to observe. By the time you read this the tree will be in the ground but untouched.

I'm not that sure this tree will be much nicer without the left trunk, can I ask why you are not keeping it and making a twin trunk out of it?

Contrainer wrote: I'm not that sure this tree will be much nicer without the left trunk, can I ask why you are not keeping it and making a twin trunk out of it?

I am not 100% sure on anything yet. That was something to kick my ideas off. Get the ball rolling.

I thought about cutting the left trunk because I have always believed that 'twin trunk' trees came from a "V" shape where the two trunks have grown conjoined at ground level and share the same set of roots. Not the "Y" shape you see where a secondary trunk has grown from a growing single trunk at a higher level than ground level.

But I am happy to keep it.

I would give the trunk some movement, and the same for all side-branches. Stick in the ground and just make sure you think the branches annually to get backbudding inside. Then let it grow for 5-10 years.

leatherback wrote: I would give the trunk some movement, and the same for all side-branches. Stick in the ground and just make sure you think the branches annually to get backbudding inside.

Do I thicken them and get back budding by just pruning?

leatherback wrote: Then let it grow for 5-10 years.

I thought 3-4 years was enough to get a thick trunk. Now you think more like 5-10? I suppose. Perhaps it is something to do with the fact the tree is maybe a slower growing tree.