名媛直播

Auk wrote:

名媛直播Mackem wrote: It is like your son or daughter asking you for that toy for Christmas they have always wanted and saying to them to wait till the following Christmas before getting it.

I think you are making clear what is by far the biggest problem with new bonsai enthusiasts. You're not the only one.
Lots of people try to create an instant-bonsai... but end up with something disappointing. Often they kill the tree in the process. Yes, there are movies on youtube of people making a wonderful tree out of raw material - but do notice these people are experts and they use good material.

But how long is a few? Two? Three? Four? If it ain't as long as I am perhaps thinking then it won't be so bad

That depends on a couple of factors, like:
- Your starter material. If you already have a good trunk, and if the tree has already been trained, you can start shaping the tree. The better quality material, the higher the price, of course
- The type of tree. Some grow and develop quicker than others
- The style. For a literati style tree, you don't want a big fat trunk. You can make a nice forest using simple trees with straight trunks.
- Your goal. The more time you give it, the more beautiful it can get.

My best tree is a juniper that I've been working on for 15 years. It has been in a very large garden pot and has only been potted in a bonsai pot 2 years ago. It needed the time to grow branches, to heal wounds, to develop roots. It is not a masterpiece, but every year it looks a bit better than the year before.

I have a few other plants from that period, that were planted in small training pots at that time. They have hardly developed in all these years and still are hardly worthwhile.

You are as always 100% right. I should take less notice of my own shirt sightedness and more to you own wise pearls of wisdom which speak with such common sense and logic. I would be wrong to ignore your points.

We live in an instant society where we prefer to know positive things soon instead of waiting for results to happen where we are not so certain of the outcome.

Regarding thickness, going on the thickness of my Junipers trunk then do to assume 4-5 years is enough? Compared to what pics I have seen in books it is still quite thin.

Also, on the issue of style, what style do you think would suit? I am thinking Cascade or Windswept. The trunk on the right is quite long.

On the point of '1/3', how do you measure one-third? It says in one article that the second branch should be 1/3 the distance from the bottom branch to the top. Something like that.

I would not remove too much. Just remove branches that might cause bulges because they are clumping; You should not have more than 1 branch at any one point.

Cascade & windswept are very difficult styles to do right, and are way too often used as a fall-back. I see neither as a logical choice. Informal upright, or fantasy form (With heavy bending now, and letting it grow out).

I would not just plant it. I would now give the trunk some character while still flexible.

leatherback wrote: I would not remove too much. Just remove branches that might cause bulges because they are clumping; You should not have more than 1 branch at any one point.

Cascade & windswept are very difficult styles to do right, and are way too often used as a fall-back. I see neither as a logical choice. Informal upright, or fantasy form (With heavy bending now, and letting it grow out).

I would not just plant it. I would now give the trunk some character while still flexible.

Informal Upright I have of course heard of. Never heard of Fantasy Form. Sounds very interesting. Sounds very unrestricted. Free flowing. Good suggestion. Will think on that.

The issue of planting it. That seems like a terrific idea. Get the design done NOW and I can plant it knowing I have the structural design in place which I won't need to worry about 3-4 years from now when the trunk is at full thickness.

How would you measure one third? The article Auk posted said the second branch should be approx 1/3 the distance from the first branch to the top and the third branch should be approx 1/3 the distance from the second branch to the top.

All advice gratefully received.

ehm..

If you have a tree in mind of 60cm tall then 1/3 is 20cm. I am not sure what you are asking..>?

leatherback wrote: ehm..

If you have a tree in mind of 60cm tall then 1/3 is 20cm. I am not sure what you are asking..>?

Don't worry. You have answered my query perfectly. I just wanted to know what is meant by one third when it is suggested to measure one third and how you calculate that.

So if I had a tree that is something like 55cm tall, do you just divide 55 by 3 then? Which would be 18.3. You can get 20 if you divide 60 by 3.

Cheers so much for clarifying it all up.

Does anyone know if you can get the 'Blue Alps' variety in J.Squamata as well as J.Chinensis?? The label says it is a Chinensis but this 名媛直播 forum thread says it is a Squamata.

I think they are the same:



"Juniperus Squamata 'Blue Alps' = see Juniperus Chinensis 'Blue Alps', possibly a J. Chinensis x J. Squamata cross

To thicken the trunk once in the ground I know I need to chop it down. But I don't know how far to go.

Can anyone help me with that?

It depends on what your goal is and what style you're going for, but maybe this helps:

This is a chinese juniper I bought last year. I've selected a part that I think can form a good new top and I'm airlayering the part above it (that is... I'm trying to air layer it )

I'm letting that long branch at the bottom grow freely. I do not have a final style in mind, I might consider later to make it a cascade using that branch, or remove it if the trunk has become fat enough and go for an upright style (of course I can try more airlayers with the parts I want to remove). I don't know... I'm going to let it grow for a year and will check next year what my next step will be.

I would have liked to plut the tree in full ground but I have no space left in my garden .

Auk wrote: It depends on what your goal is and what style you're going for, but maybe this helps:

This is a chinese juniper I bought last year. I've selected a part that I think can form a good new top and I'm airlayering the part above it (that is... I'm trying to air layer it )

I'm letting that long branch at the bottom grow freely. I do not have a final style in mind, I might consider later to make it a cascade using that branch, or remove it if the trunk has become fat enough and go for an upright style (of course I can try more airlayers with the parts I want to remove). I don't know... I'm going to let it grow for a year and will check next year what my next step will be.

I would have liked to plut the tree in full ground but I have no space left in my garden .

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Looks like you have made the air-layer just below half way. I think that should work out. Nice and comfortable enough height to work with I think.

I could also do the same. Instead of throwing the top part away. I have some sphagmum moss doing nothing. I am worried about this fungal infection though but as I am only doing a little bit, a tiny bit of moss won't harm me.