名媛直播

名媛直播Learner wrote: ... Letting it grow into summer then cutting it back is just a waste of energy. ...

Since 1996, we've been mowing over this Mulberry Tree. It keeps "back budding", if we miss a week or so, mowing, it grows about a foot (about a third of a meter), if it rains any way. A couple of times, we've, even ripped it from the ground, and tossed it in the street...

hmm could just let it grow???

My 2cts.

- I do not follow links to external hosting sites. Please upload pictures to the forum directly. Also, this will allow people who read this in 6 months time, to learn from it, when you have already removed them from the external host. It keeps things together so to speak.
- I trim my ficus in mid-summer. I have just finished trimming half of the shrubs in my garden, and will trim the rest over the weekend. Plants are now comepltely active, and will backbud well, most of the time. Big benefit: As growth is slowing down, your regrowth most likely has short internodes. The risk however is that it will not regrow.
- I hardly even spray any of the plants. I find it mainly encourages fungus to grow. Yew, Junipers and Fig are the exceptions: Those do get a nice spray every once in a while when it is dry
- Proper watering bonsai requires water to run out of the pot. To flush excess fertilizer, replace air, and get the whole rootbal wettet. Which is why you need a pot with drainage. Removing the rocks.. Auk is probably thinking: Any decoration which is not helping the health of the tree should not be there when you are building your tree. It only makes your life more dificult.
- Can't remember what else was all discussed.

iheartplants wrote: Thanks for letting me know! Could you please explain to me *why* that was wrong

You are getting advice from experienced bonsai growers, that use proven techniques. Yet, you are questioning everything.
I don't really feel like getting into lengthy discussions about this, sorry. I will stop following this topic.

Just one remark: why do you think plants need light?

iheartplants wrote: 'Wasting energy' isn't relevant to me in any sense, *unless you're implying it won't make it through this

I'm saying that it's less likely to make it through as it will have less energy stored. Sorry, I thought that was implied.

iheartplants wrote: You say you hope I have cuttings, so I'm assuming you're thinking this is unlikely to survive?

No, I just like taking cuttings.

iheartplants wrote: Yes I've read that exact writing before, that doesn't answer my question though - I could leave my hibiscus against my house, where it'd receive virtually 0 direct light, or I could leave it in a few hours of light daily (like I do in the late-mornings every day) - which of those do you suggest? Am aware what type of hibiscus I have (my job involves a fair amount of maintaining this exact variety, actually), my question was again - how much light should it be in, *now*, after the castration I just put it through?

It depends on the type of hibiscus you have. As it said in that passage, Tropical hibiscus go in the sun but with some shade in summer when it's brightest/hottest. Hardy hibiscus grows in either sun or shade, so dappled sunlight will do fine.

iheartplants wrote: Okay, *you* never mist, and I'm really concerned about A, the Hibiscus that has leaves which are perspiring, whether it's worth misting - do you have a suggestion on that? I feel like you're implying not to, but not coming out and saying it..should I or shouldn't I? Seems to me that misting would prevent transpiration, keeping more moisture within the specimen thus helping it, but I'm unsure so am asking here hoping to be informed

It's really not set in stone. Some people mist, others don't. I don't. If you want to, go ahead.

iheartplants wrote: I hated writing this post because I feel like it makes me come across as an ignorant newbie

Don't worry about it, we get completely inexperienced hobbyists here on almost a daily basis, a lot of them don't even reply. Compared to them, you're great.

iheartplants wrote: I don't get what's the problem with the contentions cited by you two, nor have I seen a statement about what to do (besides 're-pot'..) or whether they're likely to survive or not, which is what I posted for.

Again, it's not a science (although it does include a lot of science), it's an art. Not everything can be said definitely. In this case, re-potting could, but you seem to be mad that Auk suggested it.

Equally, we're not sure whether they're going to survive. Hopefully they will but, if not, you have cuttings

iheartplants wrote: Is there ANY reason to do that besides an insurance against over-watering? If so, I've never heard of it and would be interested to know why. I keep a very close eye on the soil's moisture levels and am confident they're appropriate, so with that being the case I'm very interested how a non-draining pot would hurt the Hibiscus.
As for the rocks, again, WHY? They're there as a mulch layer, what's their problem? I know they're not chemically-interacting with my soil, and I know they're not preventing needed-evaporation (as I carefully maintain the soil's moisture), so - why exactly is using a rock mulch detrimental to my tree?

Remember you are trying to grow 名媛直播, you are not doing simple gardening. You are training your plants to grow as trees and fit in a very small container. You are going to be cutting the roots of your plant to grow a dense and efficient root-ball, you will be seriously pruning your plant, you will be removing A LOT of green, you will be wiring. You can grow a tree in a big pot with very organic soil, but that doesn't mean it will be optimal. Do you know how many years it can take for a shrub or small tree to become 名媛直播? it takes a looong time. You want to do things at the right time and properly when possible, so you get there faster.

As for soil you want good aeration, good water retention and good drainage. particle-based inorganic soil gives you all that. Those giant rocks don't; the gaps between them are to large.



You need to do a little more research yourself, people here won't explain you everything...

in terms of cutting your trees to hard, they can die and they can survive, it all depends on how they were before you did it. If they were very healthy and growing vigorously they will most likely survive. You get more growth, and more out of an aggressive cut if you do it in Spring, but that doesn't mean you don't get any out of it now.

You want your tree to recover fast, and properly, so you need good soil. I have the impression you will kill many trees for not following advice here, but that's ok, that's part of the learning. I came from a gardening background too, and being a gardener really doesn't make you better at 名媛直播. Getting better at 名媛直播 does make you better at gardening though. Good luck with your trees!

Auk wrote: You are getting advice from experienced bonsai growers, that use proven techniques. Yet, you are questioning everything.
I don't really feel like getting into lengthy discussions about this, sorry. I will stop following this topic.

Just one remark: why do you think plants need light?

consistantly rude, abrassive, and mostly not helpful.
so, do not question anything, do just what he says even though there is usually not enough helpful information in his posts to even use. don't ask why, ever, you might actually learn something.
When people have been doing something for a while , it is easy , when you know everything, to assume that everyone else does too and if they don't, then something is wrong with them. the abrasive one liner responses are driving me up the wall. If you are not going to try to help, don't try to help. or I guess you could just continue to poke fun of people with less experience.
very zen
:blink: :blush: :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: :blush: :blink: :S

parker wrote: consistantly rude, abrassive, and mostly not helpful.

Depends on how you read it. It's not so rude. And considering the amount of 'thank you's' I get, I guess I'm not that unhelpful.
It still surprises me though, that people, who find me rude, find it necessary to demonstrate they can be even far more rude than I am.

Sorry, but I really don't feel like giving advice, if that advice is - as I read it - not trusted.

my point is that we all need to know WHY? why to do this, why to do that, and why not.
otherwise it is just an instruction manual that only tells a little. If someone knows why, then they will be able to make more educated choices. They will not need to ask as many questions because they can use proper reasoning. going back to Rembrandt, it is better to know why he layered colors and how the different mixing mediums changed the viscosity and opaqueness of each layer of paint. Instead of someone handing you a paint by number and then degrading you because it did not look like a real Rembrandt.

I spoke before I should have on the previous post and that was wrong and rude of me. I realized as soon as I sent it.
It is hard to remember that most people may not have the same level of experience as you and I understand the potential frustration that could cause. But, people generally ask questions because they do not know the answer. And unless they understand the reasoning behind an answer, a short quick rebuttal may potentially only increase the number of questions that fly through their minds.
I also understand that occasionally it is the questioners lack of reading comprehension skills that prompts their next question. In that case they should just read it again because it is also frustrating to take the time to write a response and feel like it was worthless.
I digress and apologize for my brash tactics, we should all be more self aware.

parker wrote: my point is that we all need to know WHY? why to do this, why to do that, and why not.

That is true. However, as someone has written in this topic before, it doesn't hurt to do some research. Also, by doing research, you learn more than you'll learn from me, as, seriously, I'm really not always right.

The need for a well draining pot and soil is one of the most discussed topics. I have a jade plant, and that thing propagates like crazy. My wife probably doesn't like 'm. She put the plant, and all other pots with cuttings, outside. Inside, they were in non-draining pots. Not needed, as they require very little water - and I don't want to spill water on my furniture. It has been raining lots, the pots were filled to the rim with water, So, I decided to transplant them to bonsai pots.

If you would have smelled the smell coming from the water that was still in the pot, you would have immediately understood why proper drainage is a must.

Light... well... that seems so obvious. if buds develop, they'll need light to form. No light, no developing buds.

otherwise it is just an instruction manual

Instruction manuals are OK. I don't think it is possible, really, to give a basic training on bonsai, soils, position, watering, every time someone asks a question, expecially when the person, asking the question, doubts the responses (and now I'm not talking about MY responses, but those of others in this topic).

I'm not saying you don't have a point, you actually do. I'm too quick too, sometimes.

apologize for my brash tactics, we should all be more self aware.

Appreciated and agreed.

iheartplants wrote: Second up is a new specimen, a Hibiscus I saw for cheap at walmart and thought what the heck!

I would also say what the heck. If its cheap, practice on it. It does not matter where you bought it, learn from it. However, you should never go in, let alone buy anything from walmart, EVER!!

Ever

Ever

but that is a different topic.
I bought a new Hibiscus (with an amazing trunk) from a hardware store. it was the only decent trunk in the bunch but it is beautiful. Anyway, this was last month and cut it back right away , just after the first forks. I did Not repot it. Now it is covered in new leaves and about 50 flower buds, every tip has more than 3. I left one long branch with a flower bud and it is blooming right now, they should flower in august. It did not back bud nearly as well as the willow I bought at the same time but good enough. I also picked up a Forsythia and it is even slower than the Hibiscus. It is summertime here in Chicago and has been hot.