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Of course I'll dig them, and I'm not worried if they will survive transplanting,I'm sure they will (if by chance not, I'll only regret the effort, as I don't sympathize with plants as I do with animals, so they won't be missed by me or the others here in any way) Concerning plants, I'm into aesthetics, not petting. If it won't damage the look of the environment, I'm good to go.I just wanted to know if wiring, pruning and root system reducing can be done AT THE SAME TIME in a year since transplanting, and if some of these actions can be done WHILE transplanting - like pruning the tree and reducing the treetop to a half of it's original size.

Nikola990 wrote: Of course I'll dig them, and I'm not worried if they will survive transplanting,I'm sure they will (if by chance not, I'll only regret the effort, as I don't sympathize with plants as I do with animals, so they won't be missed by me or the others here in any way) Concerning plants, I'm into aesthetics, not petting. If it won't damage the look of the environment, I'm good to go.

That is just sad and lame. And I'm not so sure that equally distributed. I wish you luck, not because of you, but for your trees. They are going to need it alright.

Alain

What's sad is that some have no real worries in life so they care about most trivial things like using plastic bags, or useful like exterminating animal pests or weeds without any real knowledge what damage it would really do to the environment(based on an evidence, of course, there's no any). So when I ask a question, it would be good to get a real answer, not these quasi-pastor lectures based on science like religion is.

Nikola990 wrote: This april, I'm going to do this for the first time. I found many advices on the net, and they're all pretty much the same, they talk about at least one year recovering, then gradual root thinning and pruning; but all are oriented to plants which are brought from far away. In my case, I live on a pedestal of this hill, from which I want to transplant, 1 km from the top maybe. Should the plant go through this period of recovery anyway? And if it should, when should I start shaping the plant and pruning the rootball? Can it be done at the same time? The plants I'm going to transplant initially are known for their endurance; like firehtorn, hawthorn, juniper. In my country it grows almost everywhere without any care. Thank you in advance.

Hi Nikola,

When collecting trees either from private land or other areas one of the most important things to know is "what" the trees natural habitat and growing conditions are. Having an understanding of the Species which you are intending on collecting can be very helpful to a successful recovery.
Trying to collect the tree at it's premium time for transplanting(sometimes not possible) and planting into a "soil mix" which will enable recovery rather than impede it are 2 other things to try and know first. Sometimes these can take time to find the right combinations.
If the trees are on private land then it is very possible to begin training while still in the ground . Reducing the height and undercutting roots etc and digging the tree in several years instead of straight away.

Different trees from different locations will collect differently. Not all will be recovered with great amount of rootmass intact and some will be able to remain firm/tight with soil intact. alot depends on the ground, is it sand? then harder to keep rootmass as it freely fall off. If a clay based or other type tighter ground it may stay around the rootmass better.
Yes if you can reduce the rootmass safely then usually first collection is a good time , but also depending on the Tree Species.



Like I say it is different everywhere and some trees require different treatments to survive collecting so try to collect trees which put out roots easily or are fast growing naturally. They have more chances of survival ,especially for beginners than most Conifers and some others.
How long to wait is debatable , but you at leat need to wait for several (eg 2 or 3) growth spurts. The more extension growth on these new shoots you allow to run free(grow long) the more chance of the tree putting out good new root growth. You don't want to rush the recovery period ,especially if you are not too experienced at collecting yet.

Don't be ruthless with your collecting, slowly as it goes. learn from any mistakes and Have Respect for Nature.

Hope this info helps you somewhat.

Nikola990 wrote: What's sad is that some have no real worries in life so they care about most trivial things like using plastic bags, or useful like exterminating animal pests or weeds without any real knowledge what damage it would really do to the environment(based on an evidence, of course, there's no any). So when I ask a question, it would be good to get a real answer, not these quasi-pastor lectures based on science like religion is.

Sad to hear ppl are that ignorant of life and their surroundings. The question of wherther there is adamage or not could naturally be supported by the imagination: What if everybody would be doing this? Then it would result in a big problem,

As for getting an answetr to your question.. Did you even read the very first reply given to your question? If not:

leatherback wrote: If you have to ask this question, I would say you are not ready to start collecting.

The DISTANCE is not the problem. The treatment you give the plant is the reason for the recovery. And yes. Also for Firethorn.

You cannot collect a plant without pruning the roots, and in most cases you have to prune the plant.

Get someone who knows what he is doing and ask them to come with you and help you through every stage. Otherwise you will be killing plants, not collecting them. (One can wonder whether you have enough experience to keep the plants alive, if you do not know the basics)

Thank you Craig, it does. I went up today and saw bunch of young hornbeam trees. If anyone has experience with this species, do let me know.

Yes. I have plenty of experience with hornbeams

I'm transplanting 30 of those to my garden in two days. They're 100-200 metres away from my yard and will get the same ground they originate from. I'm planning to dig small trunks, 25,30, 35 cm long, so they won't really need any upper pruning before shaping it in training, and seems to me, the root ball would be relatively small too. Should I just transplant them whole, or should I reduce something anyway? Also, I would like to hear your suggestions, should I get trunks with developed stronger branches, but still young - 10-15 cm,or trunks with small very young branches, 4-5 cm? These with stronger branches usually have naked trunks 2/3 down to the top, and these with small ones have them all over the trunk. Considering things been said previously, I suppose it can't be cut to stump in order to start training a mame in a year or two? (please forgive me for these cruel thoughts :whistle: )

Nikola990 wrote: I'm planning to dig small trunks, 25,30, 35 cm long, so they won't really need any upper pruning before shaping it in training,

I though you were collecting trees. You are digging up seedlings. That is something very different, and not comparable to collecting trees.

If you are serious about bonsai you collect the biggest trunk fitting to the bonsai you have in mind. You keep track of lateral rooting potential, and shape of the main trunk, including potential for height reduction.

If you collect seedlings you can get whatever. THey will need half a decade of onward growth anyway, which gives you time for roots and canopy development.