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bob wrote: That is why the water does not touch the bottom of the pot and you can use and make do and make it a humidity tray

Bollocks. It is drip tray, not humidity tray.





On these pages, by the way, you will also read why misting generally is a waste of time.

Or some kind of lift of the pot may be in order

You did not write that the water should not touch the bottom of the pot, so you've killed yet another tree with your advise.
Can you give some references where it is explained why salt in a tray under an elevated pot is of any use ?

* making a barrier so ants cannot reach the tree can be useful to prevent aphids. But that's not what we're discussing here - as far as I know. I guess you'll twist your words in such a way now that you are going to tell that that was exactly what we were discussing.

The other thing is that when water may evaporate, it takes 3 times the temperature for salt to evaporate and solidify in the roots above the drainage holes, the salt will sit in the tray.

I had to read this line several times to try and understand what you mean. I think:
Salt will evaporate at a temperature that is 3 times higher than the water (???) so the salt will not evaporate and stay in the tray?

Auk wrote:
I see you advise a water bottle. I've been using a garden hose, with a spray nozzle. It doesn't seem to disturb the surface of my well-draining soil, but do you think that is wrong and do you advise against such techniques?
Thank you!

I actually also use a garden hose to water my plants. It doesn't seem to harm them or disturb the soil. I use the "cone" selection in my nozzle in order to spread the water jet that comes out of the hose. Also I think a water bottle would be very impractical when you have a lot of trees to water everyday or even twice a day. You would have to refill it continuously not to mention that, at least from my point of view, does not guarantee a correct watering regime. Also the time employ it to water all of the trees you own would only tend to increase at the same rate your collection increases.

alainleon1983 wrote:

Auk wrote:
I've been using a garden hose, with a spray nozzle.

I actually also use a garden hose to water my plants. It doesn't seem to harm them or disturb the soil. I use the "cone" selection in my nozzle in order to spread the water jet that comes out of the hose. Also I think a water bottle would be very impractical when you have a lot of trees to water everyday or even twice a day. You would have to refill it continuously not to mention that, at least from my point of view, does not guarantee a correct watering regime. Also the time employ it to water all of the trees you own would only tend to increase at the same rate your collection increases.

In case it wasn't obvious: I was not seriously considering to use a water bottle.

Auk wrote: In case it wasn't obvious: I was not seriously considering to use a water bottle.

Thx for clearing that up! :whistle: I was in the store scouting bottles alresady

Auk wrote:

bob wrote: That is why the water does not touch the bottom of the pot and you can use and make do and make it a humidity tray

Bollocks. It is drip tray, not humidity tray.





On these pages, by the way, you will also read why misting generally is a waste of time.

Or some kind of lift of the pot may be in order

You did not write that the water should not touch the bottom of the pot, so you've killed yet another tree with your advise.
Can you give some references where it is explained why salt in a tray under an elevated pot is of any use ?

* making a barrier so ants cannot reach the tree can be useful to prevent aphids. But that's not what we're discussing here - as far as I know. I guess you'll twist your words in such a way now that you are going to tell that that was exactly what we were discussing.

The other thing is that when water may evaporate, it takes 3 times the temperature for salt to evaporate and solidify in the roots above the drainage holes, the salt will sit in the tray.

I had to read this line several times to try and understand what you mean. I think:
Salt will evaporate at a temperature that is 3 times higher than the water (???) so the salt will not evaporate and stay in the tray?

First of all, I do not know where misting has come from, and I use a water bottle, I did not say USE A WATER BOTTLE!!!!!!!!!!, did I. And I do think flowe is clever enough to realise what a humidity tray is and that the water should not touch the bottom of the pot, anyways sir auk Lancelot rides to flowes rescue anyhow. I use alsorts of material and use them as humidity tray including bits of bottles, boxes and what not, so long as it does not touch the bottom of the pot and the water is present in the container. And the salt will stop almost all manner of larvae and mites living in the tray, including fungus knat larvae. The lift of the pot thing was so your theory of the water touching the bottom of the pot was eluminated.

bob wrote: First of all, I do not know where misting has come from

It was in my post, as an addition to the other myth.

I did not say USE A WATER BOTTLE!!!!!!!!!!

Then what's the point mentioning it and writing how to use it?

And I do think flowe is clever enough to realise what a humidity tray is

Drip tray.

and that the water should not touch the bottom of the pot

But you did not mention it. You forget what audience you are writing for.
BTW I don't know how deep your drip trays are? Mine are quite shallow so there would have to be no water in them if I want to avoid water touching the bottom of my pot. Not that I am using drip trays, my trees are outside so no furniture that can get water stains on 'm.

I use alsorts of material and use them as humidity tray

Drip tray.

And the salt will stop almost all manner of larvae and mites living in the tray, including fungus knat larvae. The lift of the pot thing was so your theory of the water touching the bottom of the pot was eluminated.

Usually larvae and mites live in the soil of trees, not in the water in the drip tray. But as you are so sure of the benefits, I am sure you can point us to sites where you have found this technique including reviews ?

I use drip tray as humidity trays as well just when you quoted anything to do with humidity.

By the way you are the king of quoting.

And answers to you question:http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/houseplt/msg0623325431625.html

Search insects that live in water. Larvae, anyways, logic would obviously tell you that life likes moisture. And when you water , it goes through the drainage holes, bringing the mites that live in the soil with it through the drainage holes. And when/if you had a humidity tray outside, then you would definetely see insects in the water. Salt is one of the many methods to get rid of insects from water trays.

What's the. Point of saying i use a bottle?

What's the point of saying you use a hose, I can't use a stupid hose because I live in a flat, limited space, no garden, so I have no choice but to make do, I live in London so everything is not exactly free is it?

bob wrote: Research a bit more as I could be wrong.

On of the best advices you have given on this forum!

bob wrote: And I do think flowe is clever enough to realise what a humidity tray is and that the water should not touch the bottom of the pot

If that is what you assume, you should assume that the user of the forum also thinks of using a humidity tray (As, when you are familiar with how to use a concept, you first have to be familiar with the coneept itself)

bob wrote: And the salt will stop almost all manner of larvae and mites living in the tray, including fungus knat larvae. The lift of the pot thing was so your theory of the water touching the bottom of the pot was eluminated.

The nice thing is.. Fungus gnat larvea don't live in water anyway. They live in the soil. Thinking of which.. I can only think of a few insects with larvea in the water, and none of them would reproduce indoors. So I do not really see a reason for salt (Nor a humidity tray)

As for effect of a humidity tray..
Say you would like to raise your relative humidity by 20%.
- You will need to add about 3 grammes of water per kg of air (See ).
- A cubic metre ot dry air weighs about 1.2 kg ( ). - Assuming a ventilation rate in your home of 120 m3 per hour ( ),..

You basically have to replenish the water at a rate of 120 m3 * 1.2 kg/m3 *3 gr = 432 grammes of water per hour. So basically, your humidifier tray will have to be able to evaporate a pine of water, each hour, to have a decent effect.

Please do not think I am counter arguing as your advise is correct but fungus knat larvae is a greenhouse pest like spider mite so it reproduces indoors, and when you water and the water runs through the holes the larvae runs through the hole as well with the water into the tray. Thank you leatherback.