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i was wondering if there was some kind of forcing technique 'cuz ive seen pictures of bayan style trees with straws attatched to the branches to grow arials maybe this is part of it

The straws are used to guide aireal roots in a reasonably strainght line to the ground. These roots tend to be very curly, which is very unnatural looking in bonsai: In large trees the movement of a few cm still gives the impression of a straight line to the ground. Inbonsai a few cm is often a serious part of the canopy, which ruins the idea of a small yeat very old mature tree.

these are some very nice techniques! not sure if i will try them out but it is very helpful for others who love ficus. ^^

maby in a few years i can try them out on my cutting from last year. altho it doesn't seem so grow so fast. now its 10cm high so i guess it didn't grow that much. maby it's because of low light. i have a dark backyard because of lots of plants and schrubs. now it stnd next to the mothertree behind a window in lots of sun, so hoping to get more growth.

grts

thanks jelle, i just figured the straws were to create a micro environment so the roots didnt dry out on the way down... good to know

Hey jeroen I posted a topic on the technique I was talking about, the same can be done to your tree, keep the roots as they are and slit the base of the trunk, you will have to find a deeper pot then so that the wound is covered with soil. The method is quite radical and will take some balls to to such a thing to your tree.

my ficus seems to grow aerial roots out of nowhere, and they grow straight to the ground, but good luck everyone, i learned from the advice of people here, even though i don't need them now.

yesterday i have wired this bonsai. while i was bendig i broke the top! it wasnt broken of so i have put the trunk back to its original place as much as possible. is there anything i can do to ensure the top doesn't die of?

also it looks like the tree needs some pruning but im scared to cut. as far as i heard from the internet the best way to prune is to wait till seven leaves have grown and then prune back to two. now im guessing that they mean new growth and when the branch on my tree has seven leaves it is already start to become woody (brown). this is why im scared to prune because i think that pruning woody growth needs a different technique than pruning young green branches.

i'm hoping that somebody can help me because i don't want the branches to become to thick and a flaw in the design.

grts
jeroen

for me, ficus is not suitable for shoshin style. Ficus grow surface root when massive growth of branch and leaves occure.

About the technique, just put some dump coton on the part of the plant where you whant to develope surfacero0t.

jeroen03 wrote: yesterday i have wired this bonsai. while i was bendig i broke the top! it wasnt broken of so i have put the trunk back to its original place as much as possible. is there anything i can do to ensure the top doesn't die of?

If its really bad, I would try and wrap moss or palm peat around the area as if I were doing an airlayer, that would keep it moist and hopefully time for the broken area to heal.

I would put some drafting powder between the two halves and then wrap a piece of raffia tightly around it to make sure the seal is airtight and they won't separate again.

The tree doesn't need pruning at the moment, so just leave it recover for a while.

To prevent accidents like this in the future, you could consider taking a few bonsai lessons. From what I can see from the picture, the tree looks poorly wired. It's not bad, but a few beginners mistakes where made:

First of all, I think one type of wire is being used on every branch. This results in the wire being too thick for some branches while being too thin for others. You should always pick a wire that is thick enough so that it effectively holds your branch in place, but not too thick so that you end up twisting the branch around the wire instead. You always wire down the branch. And when you notice the wire is becoming too thick for the branch, you should anchor it at the nearest crossing and continue with a thinner wire.

Second: You should always wire at a 45? angle, not too loose, not too tight either. You can practice this at a chopstick. When your done wiring your chopstick, all loops should be evenly spaced. And when you hold the chopstick vertically, the wire should not fall off, but you should be able too pull it of without much force. To do this, gently guide the wire around the chopstick with your pointing finger while you wire it.

Fourth: When a branch must be pulled down, you wire it from the bottom, going over the branch on the first loop. This way, when you pull the branch down, the wire gets tightened instead of loosened. This adds to the stability, lowering the chance of snapping the branch. At the picture, you can clearly see the small gap between the wire and the branch.

You probably made a few other mistakes as well, which i can't see from the picture. Wiring is one of the most essential techniques in bonsai, but is also very hard to learn from books and videos. I would therefore really recommend going on a bonsai course if your serious about bonsai and if you don't want accidents like this again.