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The thing in bonsai is that often when you make a contious decition to "set the tree back in development", it is really about aming for a better tree in the future. You will hopfully live at least another 15 years, proboably a lot longer. That is enough time to produce an excellent piece of art that will live a long time after and maybe even be asosiated with you decades after you are gone. It feels strange to me to talk about it in that way, but in some way it makes at least your name and legacy imortal.

Going for a split trunk design in the future is proboably the slower option as you must rely on backbudding. But will proboably make a better tree in the long run. If you go for one trunk the big question is when to do it. The longer you wait the faster taper will build, but you always risk inverse taper that will ruin it.

Regarding the mugo, I don't concider the basic structure to be set yet. There are still oposite branches that needs to be adressed before I would consider basic design to be done. However, it is not urgent to adress the issue and meanwhile it is fully possible and adviceable to work on secondary branching.

Just curious which branches are opposing and need to go?

I cannot see the whole tree or all branches. And maybe camera angle fools me?

In bonsai one of the first conciderations together with chosing front and planting angle is to define which is thet first branch. In the photo there are two. Maybe not excactly oposite? Maybe not excactly on the same level? As said, photo angle may fool me. But they are absolutely not that far inbetween that they can be concidered first and second branch.

Now, there are a lot of guidelines in bonsai. They are not fixed rules but guidelines. All of them can be ignored. If this is a concious decition and you like it like that, there are no reason to change anything. However in this case I think it is not?

There may be more oposite branches left, but this one is the most obvious.

Here are some more pictures of Mugo

Yes, I think you are right starting bud selection and bud pinching in order to get backbudding and secondary branches closer to the trunk. It really need to get more compact to get into proportion. Some sources say that mugos only backbud from where needles are left, but my experience is the oposite. It may depend on climate?

Branch selection can be delayed a few years, no urgent issue. Just go for backbudding. As soon as you see evidense of swelling into inverse taper in the multi branch crotches, it is time for the final branch selection.

It has tons of back budding from pinching now I’ve had to eliminate some buds to help control inverse taper from happening. Have gotten buds on old growth, so far it’s been back budding great and will be able to start shortening branches next year.