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Hi everyone thanks for your replies i really appreciate it. Actually it's not dead. I'm in new zealand and it's winter time here in nz. Chinese elm drop leaves in winter. It's alive and in healthy condition.

Garrypb wrote:

Same i think it's ugly too. I'm going to repot in a big pot what if i just bury the stamp underneath the soil, will that work?

That is one option to concider, yes. Similar to that is to use the same pot and make an airlayer above the thick root. But as said, reach out to someone experienced with growing this species locally for support in deciding which is the best option and maybe also supporting in the work. Good luck.

Hi everyone thanks for your replies i really appreciate it. Actually it's not dead. I'm in new zealand and it's winter time here in nz. Chinese elm drop leaves in winter. It's alive but not really in good condition because previous owner didn't cared about it he just left it outside even he told me he changed the pot five years ago. I'm feeding it properly on time i keep it in the greenhouse in the night time and thn i move it in the sun in day time. Doing my best to keep it alive. Thanks again for helping me.

Here is a photo of bark i scratched a bit and it's green inside.

Outch! I would not damage trees like that ever. Yes the impatient person can get a fairly accueate answer on the question at hand. But it is damaging the tree and that beautiful bark.

You should not be adding any fertiliser when dormant, and there is no need to keep moving it. Leave it out.

Tropfrog wrote:

Outch! I would not damage trees like that ever. Yes the impatient person can get a fairly accueate answer on the question at hand. But it is damaging the tree and that beautiful bark.

The infamous scratch test is really only good for verifying that the tree is dead. Or, for finding how far down a branch it is dead. I would only do it when the tree has appeared dead for a couple of seasons.

Yeap, It is definitely alive.
Leave it outside and feed it in the Spring, August/September.
Follow the advice already given and take a look at the whole rootbase before taking any part of it off, but do it after the tree is growing healthy after Winter.

Once you hit optimal repotting season for your location, take it out of the pot.
Clean out the rootball from the old substrate

At that point decide how much of the healthy roots are linked to the big root you would like to remove. If this is not more than say 1/5 of the rootball, you can remove one. Repot, and make sure the nebari is fully below the surface of the soil. Let it grow for the year. Next repotting season you do the same thing. Over time you can in this manner fix all issues without risking the tree.