Osmocote question
- floraAdore
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I've always used super thrive so, it's what I had when this obsession began but, I've been informed many use osmocote. Looking today I saw osmocote for tree/shrub/conifers & another labeled flower & vegetable.
The tree version was 18-8-6 (if my memory serves me correctly

I have a Fukien tea, serissa & brush cherry . I've read trees that produce flowers & in f.tea's case fruits, need fert w/ high phos. I ended up buying 4.5oz of the flower/veg for $4.50 w/ the understanding I could return it w/in 30days.
The super thrive & mircle grow I have are both higher nitro than anything
Thoughts?
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- Gnarlwood
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I would advise using slow release fertilizers and checking the PH of you bonsai soil. Make sure the PH is in balance with your plants needs and then use a slow release complete fertilizer.
In conclusion, don't fertilize unless you have a reason. Then fertilize to treat the specific problem. If PH and soil nutrition are good don't worry.
Give you're plant some good TLC and you shouldn't have to fertilize very much.
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- leatherback
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- floraAdore
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But, what do I know!! I'm just a newbie!
How do I check the ph?
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- leatherback
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floraAdore wrote: I was under the impression, b/c of the inorganic nature of most mediums, fertilizing is key (during growth periods)
But, what do I know!! I'm just a newbie!
How do I check the ph?
You are absolutely right. Checking the PH.. I do not know anyone doing this, and no-one at my club has even hinted at this. It is certainly not a commonly done thing, and not going to help you very much, as you will not know what causes the deviations in PH.
Don't worry too much about the exact fertilizer regime you use. A plant is going to use what it can. Just make sure your fertiliser also insluces trace-elements. High levelks of nitrogen may cause your plant to grow long shoots, with little structure & long internodes. I would prefer to keep N on the low side, if your tree is fairly mature.
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- floraAdore
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My (willow leave ficus) is mature, has a lovely stout trunk & radial roots, also, the F.Tea is fairly mature; a coiled style & at 8" tall had mostly yellow leaves & although its older, no visible surface roots. It was on sale for $25 & I've since nursed her back to health. No more yellow leaves, & new growth is evident!!
The serissa & brush cherry are pre bonsai; a boxwood from nursery stock & a baby jade & a baby elephant bush. I take time to examine each everyday & have started taking notes on days I fert, days I prune/ pinch, effectiveness ( or lack of).
Wish I had a club nearby! I may join one in NH if they'll have me!
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- Pinkham
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- manofthetrees
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- sikadelic
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manofthetrees wrote: just to put in my 2 cents...in my expieriance osmacote works fine it is a slow release fert and i have had no problems with it ( my stuff was 10/10/10) i have learned my lesson with liquid miracle grow type ferts.they have a high urea content and too much can kill your tree. organic fertalizers are the best and safest. there are also liquid ferts that are specifically desined for bonsai that contain no urea and are used with every watering
Good info. I have been using a liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength every other week. I think I will switch to organic when it runs out just to be on the safe side.
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- floraAdore
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W/ bonsai it seems 1 question inevitably leads to yet another!
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