名媛直播

I am a beginner with 名媛直播 but i do have many Japanese Maple trees, young and old. So how do i initiate a young tree as a bonsai? The problem in my mind is. JPs tend to grow taller faster then ticker. A short/young tree is too thin. An older tree is too tall, and if i cut it down, not only i will end up with a super stub at the apex but chances are all good branches will be gone as they were above the cut line. I will end up with a brancheless thick stub. What am i missing? Help please...

Air layer?

名媛直播Learner wrote: Air layer?

For a beginner?

eangola wrote:
For a beginner?

Nah. Dive right in! Mistakes are the best way to learn!
But I'd recommend the air layer, or any major work, to be done at a different time of year, preferably spring. Summer isn't the right time for that. And as far as a thick fat stub, it won't stay that way for long. Shoots will come out no problem & a new set of branches can be trained. Again, early spring would be best.

dtmoura wrote: I will end up with a brancheless thick stub. What am i missing? Help please...

Yes, that's what it will be. PLEASE!!! wait for spring, just before it breaks bud. Within a few weeks you'll have a bunch of sprouts coming out, don't touch them, let them grow. Next spring, cut them off. After a few more years or so, of this you'll have a thick scared up trunk. Hopefully we'll both know what to do by then.

I'd let it get about a half inch or so thick

Hi,

Acer Palmatum is actually really really good at growing over a cut acrea. What you would normallly do, is grow the tree untill you have about 70-80% of the truickness you want to obtain. Then you cut it to about 1/3 of the height of the tree you want to get. You let the tree re-sprout (If the tree is healthy, it will do so very quickly) and you select one of the sprouts as a new trunk for the tree. The rest you remove, so that the main trunk grows like crazy. Repeat once the new trunkline smoothly transtions into the base of the tree. Do this 3 or so times, and you have a good trunk to work with.
Things to note:
- The cut area needs to be made smooth, slanted once the new leader is growing. Cover the cut areas with cutaste. It will help the healing by callus vergrowing the wound
- If you cut in early spring, do so before the buds start to get fat, or it will take a long time for the wound to stop oozing liquid (bleeding)
- If you cut back in mid-summer, shield the plant for hot sun.
- Cutting in winter results in fast growth, with the spaces between leaves being very large. Cutting in summmer will result in shorter distances between leaves.

Also read up on developing trunks in an article I wrote a while ago:

Very well, more data to process, before I break out the cutters. Yes, both methods seem feasible. Both start with the cutters don't they.

Of course, that's why I have all those swamp maples (they're cheap, well free). And I did chop one a few weeks ago. Only two sprouts, so far, an elm would have had at least three, :lol: It's pretty small 1cm, I just had to test the "hot summer thing".