名媛直播

Hello again,

I was looking for some advice on my trees.

I have attached photos for reference.

The biggest issue I have is with my Chinese Elm. It was bought as a gift 2/3 years back and as you can see, it had a trunk cut done to it. My problem is with the bulge that is next to the cut where the branches come off the trunk. I've never liked the look of it and I finally feel brave enough to do something about it and make a big cut so I can start shaping it over the next few years. In one photo, I have marked four options using perforated lines so you can gauge an idea of what I'm thinking to do. Which is best and when should I do this?

The other photos are taken from a front view and the opposite side so you can get a 360° view in sorts.

My pine I grew from seed and I wanted to ask what I can do to help it grow a bigger trunk? Should I remove all branch growth, leave certain ones or none at all?

They are both 3+ years old and are well accustomed to UK weather.

Many thanks for any replies

名媛直播 styling is pretty much about personal aestetic preferences. Mine would proboably be the second option from the soil. But likelly in another angle than shown.

The pines will gain trunk size faster the more foliage it have. So if trunk thickening is your goal, don't prune at all.

Thanks for replying.

I've never liked the way the Elm looks because of that bugle/growth whatever its called so I will definitely be looking to remove it.
I will take your advice on board but can I clarify on what your suggesting? Use the second option from the soil that goes across but with more of an angle? I'm assuming I should cut it opposite to the angle of the third option and go down and out rather than up and left towards the upper branches? Lastly, when should I attempt the cut?

I'll leave the pine and monitor it over the next few years.

Cheers Tropfrog, I appreciate your time in replying.

Yes, I do think you got my idea for what I would do right. The first branch will not be a branch after cutting, it will be a new trunk. That is the reason why I would increase the angle to get a more natural looking flow in the trunk. Going with this option, the tree needs to be planted in another angle. I would wait to do that until earliest next spring.

I think in UK it is very close to the perfect time for hard pruning now. Look for the very first small spring buds. As soon as you see them, the window is open. Once all leafs is developed the window is closed. In my climate it is a window of 3-4 weeks. Likelly shorter in your area.

My opinion

Hey there,

Great to see you thinking about the next steps. I would recommend making 2 separate threads for each tree one. This way, over time you can update and ask more questions, things do not get mixed up and people have "the history" behind the tree.

Your elm:
I would consider using airlayering on the top of the tree. I think you can make a nice multi-trunk out of the top, and develop the rest as a separate tree. Elm will root reliably (Even as large cuttings) but layering is more reliable.

This would mean you remove all bark on top (The area marked red) [do you know how to layer? If not, more detail can be given before you start, also, wait for the tree to start growing in spring before doing this].

During the layering, you will get branches to pop on the lower thing, to which you can prune back. Pruning elm can be done yearround, so take your time and think about direction before you act. No time pressure.

[edit]
The blue of course are the main trunks for your clum bonsai, this would be rotated 90 degrees counter clockwise. THe red I might have gone too fare: Make sure there is a good connection between the two groups of branches in the top; It looks almost as if you remove the bark between the side branches

For your pine, important to keep in mind: Pines are generally poor at creating new buds, really poor when there are no needles on a section of branch, and virtually refusing to create buds on barked over branches.

This means that when growing them out you need to be very carefull in keeping a few lower branches and keeping them compact. In fact, most of the time pines are grown out by letting a leader grow several metres tall, with no side-branches in the first metre except for the future bonsai branches down below. Absolutely no need to wire out that leader as it will be completely removed in the end.

-> How tall do you want your bonsai to be
-> THis determines how thick a trunk, and which branches you need to keep

in your case, I would see the blue as your future bonsai. The rest (red) is a sacrifice which is pruned off after a few years of thickening. The two lue branches should be kept short, with buds near the trunk.



If you look at this picture, you can see that on this pine, which I got as a big bush, I removed all big branches, except for one. The last one will remain on for years to come, helping the base to swell, while I build the bonsai itself.