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Ok so I know that this question gets asked all the time but it has been killing me for weeks now because everyone always has differing points of view. Can you or can you not prune, repot, and wire at around the same time. (Zone 6b btw). I have two very healthy nursery bought junipers and am just wondering if I can not repot them since I have pruned and wired them a couple weeks prior.

Can you provide us some pictures?

Some species can handly everything at once, some species are more tender, like junipers(or at least for me).
'Junipers show signs of dying, only months after it happend.'

Healthy definition is very broad.
It was assumed healthy without a prune and wire.
Now it is pruned it has less solarpanels, and some wounds.
Trunk/branches are wired, those got some internal/external stresses.
So the questions is, is the health of the tree, still the same as when you bought it?

Then ofcouse if it is already actively growing new leaves and roots, then the time window for repot is already past.

One of the things i needed to really learn is patience and do things at the right time. And not all at once, for the benefit of the tree. You want your tree to live as long as possible, proberly 20or 30years or more. Doing things fast, might give fast results for a short time, before it ends in a death(guilty), and you will need to restart the progres.

That said, everything is possible, but results will be diffrent.

Yea sure here they are. I know its hard to see but these were the best I could get. And I think I am a little thrown off by how all of these youtube and tutorial videos show that people doing these things all at once and even books telling you you can, but on every forum and Q/A they say ABSOLUTELY NOT.

J!ust wondering if anyone can help

I have trees that I have done everything on at once. And I have trees that I have been using the slower approach. The only tree I killed so far was an all at once cypress. The trees that I go slow with actually develops faster. They dont get the big stress and needs to recover for a long time. I have one pine that did really bad for two full growing seasons after a big work, that is lost time in development. So the fast approach turned out to be very slow.

Trees are not digital. Health is many different levels between full health and dead.

When you do all at once you have a bigger risk of killing the tree. If you dont kill it you might slow down the tree conciderably.

I have stopped looking for the fast gain and started to appreciate the process. Only one work per year if healthy and no work first year for a newly purshased tree.

It is perfectly possible to do.

In fact, I pretty much always do.

Difference between you and me is.. I have been growing plants for 35 years, been doing bonsai for about 11 years now. I have some idea when plants are healthy and what they can take in different situations. If you are just starting out, what you are suggesting is a really good route to dead trees.

Most websites are on the conservative side with recommendations, because it take a level of experience and skill. When you wire a tree, you put stress on it. Bending the branches puts stress on them. Most beginners have not learned how to wire in the least damaging way and see branches die because of wiring. If you then also stress the roots, you have basically foliage that needs repairing and is struggling to keep hydrated because the pathways of water have been disturbed. And the roots cannot push water into the tree.

Think about.. A garden hose. Full of kinks. Litte water comes to the end. If you then also have the municipal water reducing pressure by 80% because of local work on the water system you will get pretty much nothing to the end.

My first couple of books said to do things in balance, so if you repot and remove a third of the roots you should remove a third of the leaves to keep the demand the leaves make on the roots balanced with the number of roots supplying the leaves.

Today's conventional wisdom says the opposite. Take your pick. If you chop the top of a field grown off you are removing a lot of leaves and you usually don't remove much roots, if any.

leatherback wrote: It is perfectly possible to do.

In fact, I pretty much always do.

Difference between you and me is.. I have been growing plants for 35 years, been doing bonsai for about 11 years now. I have some idea when plants are healthy and what they can take in different situations. If you are just starting out, what you are suggesting is a really good route to dead trees.

Most websites are on the conservative side with recommendations, because it take a level of experience and skill. When you wire a tree, you put stress on it. Bending the branches puts stress on them. Most beginners have not learned how to wire in the least damaging way and see branches die because of wiring. If you then also stress the roots, you have basically foliage that needs repairing and is struggling to keep hydrated because the pathways of water have been disturbed. And the roots cannot push water into the tree.

Think about.. A garden hose. Full of kinks. Litte water comes to the end. If you then also have the municipal water reducing pressure by 80% because of local work on the water system you will get pretty much nothing to the end.

Thank you for the reply it was very helpful, but in your opinion would either of these be ok to repot? I am probably not going to repot the cascade because it was kept at a mom and pop nursery which is fine, but I want to make sure its ok after reading these comments. The other one has been kept garden center and seems to be very healthy seeing new buds wanting to come out.