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Cuttings can be done at any time for most species, BUT, yes at some moments of year you'll get a way better success rate, spring do fine... However when we are talking about prunned material that will be discarded anyways, worth the try, right?

For air layering, as a consequence for the ring you cut to do so, the plant will probably shoot some buds at the bottom of it... I would say the bottom part is safe, the risk is that the tree heals it or you don't get rooting at all, so you can lose the top (which you would lose anyways if you just chop it)... And yes, air layering can be done at spring...

thalestris wrote: You mean I should chop the crown into several cuttings and plant them? If I wanted to keep the entire top half as a new tree, I assume I would need air layering. I'm a bit confused by what the best timeline is - I understood that now would be a good time for a chop, but cuttings should better be taken in autumn(?)

On air layering: I have a bonsai book detailing how to do it, and I've seen some resources online, but didn't read anything about what the impact on the original root stock is - do I need to take precautions, so that the lower half still thrives afterwards? Or do I not need to worry? I assume air layering is also best started now, when the tree starts growing.

Several is an option. Or just one large cutting is another.
I have been quite surprised with the ability of Olive to root as cutting..

This cutting was taken in April (2019)


Rooting took place at the end of summer. GRowth did not restart untill well into growing season 2020 and several branches dried out. The cutting wat treated with rooting hormone, planted deep in substrate, wrapped in plastic (Air it out every week) and left alone in the shade.

Air layering will be a much safer option.
Trick is to get the rootstock growing. With olive I doubt that will be a problem. I normally try to have at least one small branch below the layer, which can feed the roots. But the way olives respond, I doubt you need to.

Albas wrote: For air layering, as a consequence for the ring you cut to do so, the plant will probably shoot some buds at the bottom of it... I would say the bottom part is safe, the risk is that the tree heals it or you don't get rooting at all, so you can lose the top (which you would lose anyways if you just chop it)... And yes, air layering can be done at spring...

leatherback wrote: Trick is to get the rootstock growing. With olive I doubt that will be a problem. I normally try to have at least one small branch below the layer, which can feed the roots. But the way olives respond, I doubt you need to.

Oh wow, leatherback - amazing that cutting grew roots! I don't think I'm brave enough to try that.

I think I might wait a few weeks before air layering it. The tree has just been moved to a slightly colder location where there's still a chance of frost at night. No need to rush it, and maybe I'm lucky and there'll be new shoots at the trunk. I'd try air layering right at medium height, I hope it's thick enough there. The remaining trunk is pretty tall, but the upper part really shouldn't be longer. I can still cut the trunk afterwards. Will fresh moss from the nearby forest work as good as sphagnum moss from a gardening center?

On the plus side, my rosemary cuttings are looking quite good; they spent the first night outside yesterday and look fine despite the frost.

lol, I did not show you the amazing cutting though. But this one had one side in the ground befor chainsawing it off my pre-bonsai.



I pretty much do all my layering using my regular substrate. I find the moss to stay too wet and compacts.

You are a very courageous fella... xD

Or maybe I have so many trees that I do not mind if I make a mistake. I do loose trees too.