The front of a tree
- Brom
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I don't know what to do. I'd like to know what the experts here would do. Would you:
– keep the graft at the front and have the best front to the tree?
– plant the tree lower in the soil and hide the graft?
– or find a not so good front to hide the graft area at the back?
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- Tropfrog
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Anyway, I Think it is too early to tell. Kent the tree grow and use the first branch ?s sacrificial branch. In a few years you will have good taper and can decide front and design.
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- leatherback
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As grafts go, this one is not so bad (I cannot believe people do not see it, to be honest). It is nice and low. However, as grafts go.. THey normally get worse as time proceeds. There are very few species interesting enough to warrant a grafted tree (The japanese white on black pine roots, and cork bark black pines being notable exceptions).
So.. In all honesty.. I have tossed out all my grafted speciments.
In your case, if you are just starting out, do not worry about it too much. For now, choose the optimal front for you. This always means a compromise. If you take the first one, you have a very clear transition between the rootstock and the cultivar. But maybe the branches are all positioned great. The other you see the transition less (But is still there) and the branches may be worse. I think that often you can find the right branches. In the end it is your tree and you need to enjoy it.
But lets see the whole tree, so we can better judge what options there are?
Planting deeper is not an option to me... I always try to lift the tree to a point where the first roots are visible whenever possible.
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- BofhSkull
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leatherback wrote: Planting deeper is not an option to me... I always try to lift the tree to a point where the first roots are visible whenever possible.
Yup. And actually I'd rather dig a bit here and see if there's anything interesting to show underneath.
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- Brom
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Here are 2 photos showing what I think are the best sides. Photo number 1 is my favourite (but shows the ugly area). I like this side as I have read that showing the trunk line is more pleasing. I'd like to do a little wiring on the tree to open up some areas but this really depends on what I choose as the front.
I totally understand it's so difficult for you to advise from photos alone, but would be useful to hear what suggestions you may have anyway.
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- Brom
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- Ivan Mann
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Depending on your local climate, it may be too late to repot healthily. May is usually too hot here, and most of the trees have set at least some new growth. My repotting is done for the year, except for the ficus, which I usually do in June. Spring here started two months ago, but if it just started where you are, go for it.Brom wrote: Thanks. I think I need to re-pot the tree as it's from a nursery, so I'll have a look under the soil line. I'll leave it in it's new pot until next Spring and then take another look at what might be the front.
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- lucR
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- Ivan Mann
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We have had some discussion of a summer dormant period. I guess the end of that dormant period would be as good a time as the end of the winter dormant period. Do you do the same with deciduous?lucR wrote: I repot my pines in august, the roots of pines ( and other trees ) are really active in that period. I' m under the impression that there is a growing tendency for repotting pines in late summer.
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- lucR
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