名媛直播

Everyone has there own personal opinion on bonsai and a few select species gets focused on such as , maples, junipers (that includes cypress) pines, and cherries
would you ever consider doing a boxwood, willow or a lingstrum (privet)
It's hard to find some real good decent pictures of these and I find that these 3 are often under-rated when it comes to bonsai.

All three species you mention are in my collection. So yes. Box and privet are widely used, as far as I know. Willow is not often used due to the dropping of branches, soft wood and short lifespan.

in general, some species are more suitable then others and because of prooven suitability are used more than others. But most species will leaves small enough and suitable for pot culture gets used.

Yes as Leatherback mentioned, the first 2 are very common here in Australia aswell and The willow can be used for sure it just requires lots of patience.
here is a very old collected privet belonging to a friend of mine, shohin sized.


Have fun.

See Harry Harrington's web site (名媛直播4me) for photos of ligustrum. He has some nice urban yamadori.

I find boxwood the easiest for beginners. With simple thinning, they easily look like an upright tree because they have small leaves, rugged trunks, and interesting ramification.

My favorite tree is the Juniper, however, from experience (which I have little) I find them quite hard to work with. People say they are perfect for beginners, but I disagree. I think they are easy to take care of cause they are so hardy, and easy to wire. However, they grow extremely slow and thinning get a juniper is not such common sense as doing it with a boxwood. They grow slow, and barely backbud. Getting good ramification is quite technical too.

Privet are great (doesn't Graham Potter work with hedge Privet quite a bit? search YouTube, because he is one of the best to learn from. Knowledgeable and articulate),
Boxwood are really very slow growers but can make a nice presentation. But usually the nursery stock is just a small trunk with a ball of foliage. Might be worth looking into a hedgerow. Make friends with a demolition company, to get the heads up on abandoned material.
The Chicago Botanical Gardens has a really nice forest planting of Boxwood in their Massive 名媛直播 Collection..
I Just started pre-bonsai work on a willow, so no real experience to speak from yet.

Love me some privet. I have three of them.
And Kingsville boxwood has very petite leaves - I see it often in my bonsai region. I also have three.
I've only used willow once, and not for long. It grew very fast, filled the pot with roots in less than a season. I was very inexperienced at the time & let it go. We have black willow (salex nigra) that grows locally. I'd try it again if I found the right piece of material.
Loads of other species out there, though. Hornbeam is a personal favorite. Quince works well if you can find a singular trunk. Ginko. Hawthorn. Look around at what's growing in your area. There are plenty of species suitable and you may not have even realized it.
Search around more on this site - loads of pictures of various things!
Lastly, check in with a local club - they'll give plenty of info to chew on.
Michigan clubs:

Thank you so much! I recently acquired a dwarf boxwood and love how small the leaves are! And not going to lie I kinda like the smell that comes off the leaves
But I'll check out those species .
I was kind of thinkg about starting a mugho pine from. Nursery stock.

Matthew16929 wrote: I was kind of thinkg about starting a mugho pine from. Nursery stock.

Keep in mind, pines can be a difficult genus to work with, and do not develop as fast or as predictably as broadleaf trees. Do some more research in training & working on them. Early summer is a good time to start decandling and working on needle ramification, but not necessarily wiring, pruning & training.
This time of year is a tricky one. Leaves and needles are hardening off & preparing for a second flush (if species allows). For broadleafs, this means increases in branch thickness. Wiring right now on any broadleaf may create scarring from the swell. Definitely not a time to be doing any root pruning, regardless of species, broadleaf and conifer.
I'm saying this because it may not be the best time to work on any trees, save juniper. Juniper you could wire up and prune (no root pruning).

Keep doing research and studying up. Nursery material is excellent for beginners as they're cheap & you don't worry as much if it dies - which is good experience.
Collecting local material is always a joy for me, because I know their habits and they're adapted to my climate. It seems Michigan has plenty of variety to choose from, too: Elm, Hawthorn, Hornbeam, Cottonwood, Maple, Dogwood, Fir, etc.