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Hi everyone. Much to the confusion of my girlfriend ('what do you mean you want another bonsai?') I scored this bargain today, a large maple. Just €80! It's in a 50cm pot so certainly has some size. It's a little raw but has lots of potential.

Just a few potentially boring questions for the experts that reside here....

The first is about treating the large callous on the main trunk, will this need carving? Or will the adjacent branches cover it in time?

Second question is regarding spider mites, it is certainly suffering, obviously I have googled the issue and plan to tackle it tomorrow, any tips? One reoccurring suggestion I have noticed is to treat with multiple pesticides?

And lastly the previous owner has covered the main soil with a layer of about 7cms of pearlite, I'm planning to replace this with a decent soil mix tomorrow, to give the roots maximum space before reporting next spring. Is there any logical reason for such a layer of pearlite?

I have ordered the book ÃûæÂÖ±²¥ with Japanese Maples by peter D Adams but it seems to be taking an age to arrive.

Thanks guys

A few more pictures. Has fantastic nebari. Very happy

Carter81 wrote: The first is about treating the large callous on the main trunk, will this need carving?

Perhaps, but not now. let some time pass by, decide on the style and then carve it if necessary. Maples are prone to fungus, so if you do it be careful and cover all live wounds with pruning paste.

Carter81 wrote: Second question is regarding spider mites.

They never disappear in fact. I use insecticidal soap (dishwasher soap+isopropilic alcohol+ water) and a bayer 3x1 every week or so. if you keep the humidity high the mites will vanish.

Carter81 wrote: And lastly the previous owner has covered the main soil with a layer of about 7cms of pearlite.

Perlite floats, and is prone to raise to the top of the soil. No reason to keep it there.

Carter81 wrote: I have ordered the book ÃûæÂÖ±²¥ with Japanese Maples by peter D Adams

This is surely THE BEST book on Japanese Maples (well there is Bill Valavanis of course, but his books are impossible to find for less than 500 Euro)

Thanks clicio. Your always promt with helpful advice. How concerned should I be about the mites then? If they never truly disappear it seems it's futile battling them, but then I guess it's necessary for a healthy tree, I'm a little confused.

As per the callous is bark likely to fully cover it in time?

The nebari seems to be remaining very damp a couple of hours after watering. Would it be advisable to let this air out or can I recover it with a decent soil mix until I report in spring?

Thanks again much appreciated.

a reason to put the layer on top is to help the tree create surface roots. Perhaps perlite was all the previous owner had. I would keep it covered for now. Keep the upper part of the nebari covered for now.

The wound will callus over. I personally feel that covering the area with wound putty helpts close the cut. I would NOT carve it, but aim for closing the cut area over. It will take a number of years and you will need to let a leader grow out above it. Cut is only once per year, in winter. Then let one grow out again. This will get the sap flowing strong, with a resulting trunk buildup.

Nice trunk, nice nebari. If you get tired of it, think of me.

Thanks leatherback. I was pleasantly surprised with the nebari. The photos I saw prior to buying had it covered. Having removed the pearlite I can see that the surface roots a very present, I will get it covered asap.

When you say 'Cut is only once per year, in winter. Then let one grow out again'. Are you saying to slightly cut the bark around the wound to encourage growth?

I have some 0-10-10 fertilizer, this would also aid in the recovery of the wound right?

I was looking at trimming the leader once per year. So you create a gigantic leader that just serves to create lots of downward sugar mobility to the roots. In the process this will push the edges of the would to close. Cutting the leader away and letting another form a little higher each year ensures you do not get too much swelling (And to be honest, I just go be feeling here; It might be that I sometimes leave leaders longer or shorter)

I am a cutter of callus edges. Not sure it helps much. But yeah, when the first flush of the year starts to extend I typically take a sharp knife or wire brush and damage the edgeof the bark, then cover them up in putty. Over summer I see the putty bulge and crack; peeking is bad, but when I do, I see bright green near jelly like callus forming around the edges.

It is a slow process though. but the wood looks smooth enough.