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on the first(P1050202)photo is my entire ficus.

and on the second(P1050203)photo you can see the new growth on the right side, which is a little late in the growing season, but that's because of the pruning.

on the third(P1050207)photo you see the paper to cover the moss from sunlight,which isn't very tolerant against light, i think i'll remove it when the moss is stronger.

on the fourth(P1050201)photo you see the moss in a wide pot to get more moss for future trees.

here are the third and fouth photo's

Looking good.

nice little ficus. they are also known as "ficus retusa".ficus being a tropical tree really do not have a growing season,they do go through periods of growth and rest though.this can actually be controled with water light and fertalizer management.
i live in the states,but the best moss i have found grows in parking lots and walkways on the edges.it seems to grow with no soil and can take full sun growing on blacktop,plus is a nice bluegreen color

manofthetrees wrote: nice little ficus. they are also known as "ficus retusa".ficus being a tropical tree really do not have a growing season,they do go through periods of growth and rest though.this can actually be controled with water light and fertalizer management.
i live in the states,but the best moss i have found grows in parking lots and walkways on the edges.it seems to grow with no soil and can take full sun growing on blacktop,plus is a nice bluegreen color

could you show me a picture of it?
btw when i covered the moss on my plant, it turned from yellow-green to green, concluding it can't stand light or just coincidence because it turned yellow-green when i placed it, it's probably coincidence and i'm going to test this when the moss is stronger.

also, the moss feeds i think also without soil and primarily lives off my watering.

sorry ,but this isnt the ficus i though it was the branches are not too long just in need if wireing ang thinning...now im wondering were the ficus i was thinking of is :blink:

could you explain thinning for me please?
and yes it needs threading, but i didn't have threads 2 days ago, i spent 260 euro's last 2 days in a bonsai event in The Netherlands and i've bought all the tools needed and wiring enough for life and 4 little nice trees
an acer, a serissa(one of the kinds with white leaves), a chinese elm and a conifer to train with which was only 6.50 euro's (8.4 US dollars)

Thinning effectively means that you go through the tree, and select the branches that you are going to keep; Which side of the tr5ee will be front. Which is the main branch. Do you need branches for forming the trunk? Then leave these too. All other branches are cut off flush with the trunk.

As ficus bleed a nasty sticky juice, you best do this on top of a pile of old newspapers. The bleeding stops very quickly after you wet the wounds. So placing it outside and hosing it down after trimming should help against the bleeding. There is no need for woundpasta.

After thinning, you can wire the tree, and shape it the way you want. First wire all the branches, then start shaping it; Otherwise you will have to reset branches all the time: When you wire one branch, you will push against other branches. Handle the branches as little as possible. The more you move branches, the more damage you do to the bark.

thank you, i thought it was like that, but i wanted certainty.
i will fotograph my tree this afternoon and will work on it, getting advice from you guys

my tree is much larger ,but i have defoliated 3 times this year and may do it again in december.you can control growth with fertalizer so when i see new growth forming rapidly i will fertalize for 2 weeks and then do work.yours is in a growing phase now seeing the cut branch is sprouting.
i would defoliate first and do some wiring to get a basic shape.each leaf has a bud that may sprout and eventually be a branch so seeing this tree is in early development this will give you more options to go with in the future to decide styling options