Tall & stemmy Brazilian Rosewood
- Joyy
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Hi everyone! I'm new at this but I planted this Brazilian Rosewood about two years ago from an online bonsai seed starter kit. It's still alive and well but it just keeps getting taller and growing more leaves instead of getting fatter in the stem. I'm guessing I need to prune it down and chop off the top, but I wanted to make sure first. Any advice? Thank you!
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by Joyy
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- Tropfrog
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If you dont cut, the trunk will fatten faster but the cut mark will take longer to heal. The same goes for every cut you do, branch or trunk. That is the balance we all need to make our own decitions on.
By the way, no attachments so cannot comment about your tree specificly.
By the way, no attachments so cannot comment about your tree specificly.
by Tropfrog
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- Joyy
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Thank you! So if I just wait it out with no pruning, the trunk will get wider? Would that take a few more years of just standard water, fertilizer, and sun?
And sorry, I could've sworn I added a photo to my post. I'll try attaching it again.
And sorry, I could've sworn I added a photo to my post. I'll try attaching it again.
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by Joyy
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- Tropfrog
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The more foliage left untouched the faster the tree thickens. But there are other factors as well. Bigger pot helps, more sun light and species specific conditions.
The most interesting trees however is grown slowly with frequent small prunning. That is a process of 20-40 years to develop. Beginners tends to want result faster than that.
Your tree seems to be placed away from window. That makes them go searching for light and grow leggy. Give it as much sun as possible. In summer keep it outdoors.
The most interesting trees however is grown slowly with frequent small prunning. That is a process of 20-40 years to develop. Beginners tends to want result faster than that.
Your tree seems to be placed away from window. That makes them go searching for light and grow leggy. Give it as much sun as possible. In summer keep it outdoors.
Last Edit:2 years 8 months ago
by Tropfrog
Last edit: 2 years 8 months ago by Tropfrog.
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- Joyy
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- Albas
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I would say that they need a huge portion of soil to get some nice growth going on, otherwise they'll just get more leggy...
For this species I don't see many options if not chop it once it get's close to the desired thickness.
This is one of mine. I was training on the ground, but I had to remove it... I know you're probably not on a tropical/sub-tropical region, so wouldn't be an option for you... But then I would use a real big container. You can see it was around 1m tall, and the thickning was really good. I prunned down into a stomp (even lower then on this picture, because once it budded I brought the cut even lower.
Btw. My tree is 1 year old, so you can see how important is to allow the roots to develop on the early stages... (Of course climate plays an important role, but even if I keep a Jacarandá on a small pot and give it the same treatment, I doubt it would thicken much more than a pencil.
For this species I don't see many options if not chop it once it get's close to the desired thickness.
This is one of mine. I was training on the ground, but I had to remove it... I know you're probably not on a tropical/sub-tropical region, so wouldn't be an option for you... But then I would use a real big container. You can see it was around 1m tall, and the thickning was really good. I prunned down into a stomp (even lower then on this picture, because once it budded I brought the cut even lower.
Btw. My tree is 1 year old, so you can see how important is to allow the roots to develop on the early stages... (Of course climate plays an important role, but even if I keep a Jacarandá on a small pot and give it the same treatment, I doubt it would thicken much more than a pencil.
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Last Edit:2 years 8 months ago
by Albas
Last edit: 2 years 8 months ago by Albas.
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- Joyy
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Wow that is a beautiful Jacaranda!! It's only 1 year old from seed?? That's pretty much what I was hoping mine to look like, but you're right, I don't live in a tropical climate so I'll just be patient.
I will definitely move my tree to a larger pot with more soil. Would you say the dimensions of the pot matter at this stage? Is short and wide more ideal or would the shape not matter as much volume? Thanks so much!
I will definitely move my tree to a larger pot with more soil. Would you say the dimensions of the pot matter at this stage? Is short and wide more ideal or would the shape not matter as much volume? Thanks so much!
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- Albas
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Yes, it's from seed, taproot was prunned short when younger to get a more radial root system, still there's a long way to go...
I would say around 30x30cm ~ 40x40cm... and 15 ~ 20cm tall, which is more or less the size mine is on now...
But maybe I'll need one even bigger at some point to achieve what I have in mind. Once I have it close to the structure I have in mind, I'll start to downsize the pot and refine it...
I would say around 30x30cm ~ 40x40cm... and 15 ~ 20cm tall, which is more or less the size mine is on now...
But maybe I'll need one even bigger at some point to achieve what I have in mind. Once I have it close to the structure I have in mind, I'll start to downsize the pot and refine it...
by Albas
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- Joyy
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Alright, I found a larger pot to move my tree to based on your suggestion. When would be a good time to start wiring just for the trunk shape? Mine is already well-lignified and I'm wondering if I should start now since my trunk is still thin bends well. Or should I just repot and forget about wiring until later? Thanks.
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- Albas
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You can wire before you repot, focusing on the lower trunk, Sometimes I do the first wiring and the first rootwork at the same time, but always on healthy trees...
I know it seems like a bit agressive, but that's why it might be a good idea to work on native species, you don't have to worry much about the climate role, and it would be easier to find another one to work on...
In fact, there's just a few of my trees that I actually bought... Most of them came from seed, or seedlings/saplings I get under mother trees...
I'm not telling you to do thiis agressive approach, even because I don't know what would be the outcome there...
But wiring right after the repot is not a good idea, since it would be wobbly for a while... So you can separate that, wire, wait a week or two, then repot... Bigger the tree you want, softer the movements...
It seems like it's on the right thicknes to give it a trunk movement if you wish, but they're very flexible, so if you choose to wait, i think it's ok... After repotting just remember to reduce a bit the leaves...
I know it seems like a bit agressive, but that's why it might be a good idea to work on native species, you don't have to worry much about the climate role, and it would be easier to find another one to work on...
In fact, there's just a few of my trees that I actually bought... Most of them came from seed, or seedlings/saplings I get under mother trees...
I'm not telling you to do thiis agressive approach, even because I don't know what would be the outcome there...
But wiring right after the repot is not a good idea, since it would be wobbly for a while... So you can separate that, wire, wait a week or two, then repot... Bigger the tree you want, softer the movements...
It seems like it's on the right thicknes to give it a trunk movement if you wish, but they're very flexible, so if you choose to wait, i think it's ok... After repotting just remember to reduce a bit the leaves...
by Albas
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