Japanese Maple pruning
- sachayrn
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- Tropfrog
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Look for an upward growing branch on the lower half of the trunk and put an airlayering just abowe it. When the air layering has Good roots, cut it of and start to form a New leader from the upward growing branch.
But this is what I would do. It does not give you an instant beautiful tree but creates a good taper for a future beautiful tree.
Warning: I have recieved massive critique for my top cutting here. So for sure not everyone agree.
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- BofhSkull
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sachayrn wrote: Hello guys. I was wondering if you have any ideas about how to give my tree a more realistit shape. I just want it to prune the tree in order to look like a real splendid tree. How should i prune it in order to do that? Any suggestions please? Also if you know some youtube videos from where i can learn. Thanks in advance.
Extremely hard to tell, in this season.
You'd rather keep it it as is until next winter; then, when there's no foliage and you can see the structure of the tree, you'd plan what to do and do it right before/when next spring comes...
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- sachayrn
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- Tropfrog
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- leatherback
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sachayrn wrote: ok so no pruning until next spring, right?
I prune my maples all year round. I have found that healing is fastest in late spring. I have a 7cm diameter root above the soil of one of mine which I planning on removing in a few weeks. 2 weeks ago I have most of my maples a spring thinning & wiring where only this years growth was pruned.
I woudl not think twice about thinning this plant out once the first flush of growth has extended and the tree moves into the first dormancy. But the main question is.. What is your long tem plan for the tree. That only you can tell, as nobody can see the bracnhes on the picture. So any styling advice based on your pictures is premature.
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- tubaboy
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Pruning is also subject to your experience... and the trees health as well as a bunch of other factors, but for me the first question is: what do I want this tree to do?
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- sachayrn
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- leatherback
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Once you start developing branches and ramification, the trunk will slow down. So make sure you get a basic trunk before you pay too much attention as to what the branches look like.
The bigger the branches, the bigger the cuts thus the time & work needed to close the holes, which may or may not leave scars. This is effectively the choice you have to make: Fast growth by letting it grow really big. And big cuts. Or taking 10 years longer for the trunk and have less scarring. BOTH methods require a lot of skill to create a good tree. But both are reasonable.
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- leatherback
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For both trees: Work the roots next spring; Training the nebari should be done early on for the best resutls.
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